Try Porec, Croatia

As we recently started selling holidays to Porec in Croatia, I decided to go down there for a few days to discover a little more about this still relatively unknown destination for the Brits.  I have been to Porec many times in the past and every time I find something new and exciting.  For this trip I chose to stay in an apartment only 3 kilometres outside of the Plava Laguna area in a village called Mugeba. Our hosts were British/Croatian and couldn't have been more welcoming and pleasant. There are only four apartments in the building, all of a high standard but the icing on the cake was the pool area which we had to ourselves whenever we had time to use it. The hosts also keep bicycles for the use of the guests should they wish to venture into Porec on two wheels, but in effect is also a walkable distance.

The resort of Porec lies in the Istrian peninsula in northern Croatia and is very accessible from either Trieste airport in Italy (1 1/2 hours transfer time) or Pula in Croatia (45 mins).  These two airports are directly linked to the UK and Pula can now be reached from Scotland and several other northern airports.  

One of the beauties of travelling to Croatia is that you do feel you are in a foreign country. It retains its authenticity and cultures and has not (yet) been anglicised with 'ye olde english pubs' and fish and chip shops or taverna's serving all day English Breakfasts. It is civilised, there are no lager louts, dispite the alcohol being much cheaper than many European resorts, the weather is as it should be in a mediteranean country, the food is healthy and delicious, the people understand English and there is an abundance of sports, sights, trips, museums, art galleries and other entertainments on offer both by day and night.  

Croatia became a full member of the EU on 1st July, this year so I don't expect things to stay this way for long, unfortunately, but for now they still have their own currency and it will be a few years yet before they take the euro. However, as with the other EU members  have found, they now have to open up to foreign investments and enterprises so it won't be too long before there's a Macdonalds and starbucks on every corner.

My advice is to get there now and enjoy this lovely traditional place before it become the same as any other coastal place in Europe.

Not for the feint hearted! MANGRT ROAD

One of the not so pleasant aspects of tourism is the increase in traffic on the roads. Now it's bad enough on motorways when there are traffic jams and hold ups at accidents and border crossings, but on narrow country or mountain roads, it becomes a game of who dares wins.

The trend for larger and larger cars  is all very well on modern roads but our roads in Slovenia are just about wide enough for a horse and cart in many regions and even then you hope you don't meet another one coming in the opposite direction.  Last week I ventured up Mangart road for the first time in several years. I knew it was scary but had forgotten exactly how scary it was.

The road itself is the hightest mountain road in Slovenia and although it doesn't connect any towns or places, i.e. it just goes up, and up, and up and up to the top, it provides the most spectacular scenery you could imagine. As you would expect with any high alpine mountain road, it is not accessible for long periods of the year due to the weather conditions. This year was no exception, and when it  opened late in June there was still evidence of the severe winter on the more sheltered slopes. The road, for those with the nerves to drive it, is twisty and narrow with several tunnels and the occasional serious drop. The largest vehicle to be able to go up it, is a mini bus for 8 passengers, and even then some of the hairpin bends might need two attempts. I feel the most frightening thing about this road is the number of visitors and the amount of traffic it gets in the summer months. It is best avoided at the weekends!  There are motorcyclists, cyclists, motorists and hikers (not to mention the wildlife)  all vying for a place on the narrow strip of one lane concrete,  and meeting or passing any of them calls for some serious manoevering (and praying).  Surprisingly enough, I have never heard of, or witnessed, any accidents on this road but whether that is due to the skill of the road users or just pure luck, I have yet to decide. Either way its an absolute miracle. 

The locals in the village of Log Pod Mangartom organise two things for this mountain, one is the collection of  a 5 euros fee, charged to motor vehicles who use the road,  which helps towards the maintenance of the road and the other is an annual cycle race which starts in the village and races to the summit, at a height of  2,679 metres. (the 3rd highest peak in Slovenia).

A mountain hut is found near the top of the mountain and is open in the summer season for hikers or visitors, to provide refreshments or maybe even shelter if necessary.  The 'sedlo'  ,or saddle, is also a popular place for the paragliders to launch themselves from the mountain side.

I believe one of the best reasons for visiting this mountain is the goat and sheep farm. This is the only one of its kind in Europe and has been approved by the EU. It is a collective farm and each farmer with animals put to pasture there in the summer months, has to do a proportionate number of days on the farm milking and cheese making. The cheese, a mix of goat and sheep milk, can be bought directly from the farm or a tasting and tour can be taken.  The animals, of which there are approximately 400, are milked twice daily by hand (5am and 7pm) and the cheese is produced on site in the traditional method with the milk being heated over a wood burning fire. 

For those who do not wish to drive themselves but are not scared of mountain roads and heights, who would still like to see the farm and the spectacular scenery, then there is a guided excursion offered from Kranjska Gora and Bovec once a week on a Monday afternoon and it is even possible to attempt the milking too. 

What a beautiful lake.

Many times a week I pass this lake just over the border in Italy, and it never fails to impress. The lake is on the other side of the Mount Kanin in Bovec, Slovenia and is on the way to Sella Nivea, the ski slopes that were recently joined with the Kanin slopes.Any guests arriving to Bovec from the North and entering Slovenia via the Predel Pass, will pass this lake on route. It always used to amaze me that this beautiful natural lake, so close to towns and accessible by every size motor vehicle, was not commercialised  or exploited. Apart from a small chalet selling drinks and two choices of main courses, that was the only sign of civilization around the lakeside for many years. And, until recently, the lake was rarely used by sports enthusiasts but now it is starting to become an ideal environment to  learn the basics for some of the more popular water sports such as kayaking, wind surfing and canoeing.  Many of the Bovec sports agencies also choose to take their guests here as it is only a 20 Min's drive and it provides a safe environment for people to learn the basics before they attempt the faster running waters of the river Soca. In fact, when packaging activity holidays for the travel puzzle, I always try and include at least one visit to the lake, especially when recommending activities that the whole family can take part in. There is  a small water sports centre on the lakeside that operates throughout the summer and also provides pedalos, kayaks and windsurfs with the various necessary accompanying equipment and hosts lessons with qualified instructors. The chalet still provides the opportunity of taking lunch or refreshments there, although a picnic in the designated area would be perfect. The Tarvisio municipality has recently organised proper parking areas and benches for this purpose.

This lake is different in every season, it freezes over in the winter and is so still in the autumn that the mountains and trees are reflected in it's surface like a mirror.

Lepena and the Soca Valley

Today we had a request from some guests from Brazil to take them into the Lepena valley, one of the valleys that lead off from the main Soca Valley.  How is it that four visitors from Brazil on a fleeting visit to our country managed to discover one of the prettiest hidden gems in Europe?. It was only driving them into the valley that I remembered how beautiful it actually is.  Living here for the last 30 years makes you take things for granted and only seeing them through someones elses eyes, can you then appreciate, once again, the magnificence of the area.
I asked them what it was that made them want to go into Lepena valley, they told me the pictures sold it to them and the canyons, so here I have attempted to do the valley justice with a few photos. I don't believe anything can beat seeing it for real though.

Canyon at the entrance to Lepena valley

 This is taken from the bridge spanning the river Soca at the entrance to the valley.

 There is a path the whole length of the canyons and riverside from the souce (Izvir Soca) high up in the Trenta Valley down to Bovec, the tourist resort and sports mecca.

The Lepena valley has a couple of tourist spots, one is Camp Klin, a motorhome and traditional campsite open throughout the summer months, and Pristava Lepena, a tourist village of small bungalows and riding school.

Both of these places have excellent restaurants for lunches or dinners. 

This section of the river soca is very popular with anglers and only fly-fishing is allowed during the open season. The Soca trout, indiginous to this river, is the catch the anglers are after. One of the reasons this section is popular for fishing is  because this upper section of the river has less sporting vessels on the water. The licences can be bought at Kamp Klin.

   At the end of the valley where the road ends, the path starts for one of the most popular walks in this region.  This is an average walking time of 3 hours (uphill) to reach the Krn mountain glacial lake.  There is a mountain hut close to the lake where refreshments can be bought and if hiking over the whole ridge then overnight accommodation can also be found here but it is advised to reserve it in advance in the summer months. Most of the path is in the shade of the trees but on reaching the lake you will find it very exposed.  The lake is home to some small pyranah style fish, tadpole sized creatures that will nibble on anything so it takes a brave person to swim with them.

As with most high mountain hikes, it is wise to check the weather forecast before the start and also go prepared for walking in the mountains.  Many people underestimate the speed at which the weather can change. Essential equipment includes a very good walking map, proper hiking boots (not sandals) and at least water, if not some food too, waterproofs, first aid kit, compass, and mobile telephone are also very useful and although not essential, highly desireable that at least one member of your party has them. Again, it is always better to walk/hike in company rather than alone but not obligatory. ALWAYS tell someone where you are heading, which route you are taking and when you expect to be back by. If you lose the path or think you may have gone wrong, do not try to find an alternative route but double back and try and pick up the route you came by.  Enjoy the mountains and scenery but keep safe.